241: Two Endings And Two Beginnings

Ending Experience #1: The last Big Hike in Namibia (from Bernd)

I always had a special fondness for the Naukluft, a mountain range at the edge of the desert, some 300 km south of Windhoek. There is an 8-day/120km round-trip trail with shelters for every night, but otherwise nothing but unspoiled nature. We hiked it in 2002 (see Namibia Diary #132), and I wanted to do it once more. Our daughter Elsita agreed and persuaded two of her colleagues, Michelle and Ari, to join the adventure. So, on the 21st of May, I set out with a load of supplies from Windhoek to Gobabeb to pick them up, and on the next day we started from the Naukluft Park Headquarters with all the clothes, food and other essentials that we would need for the next 8 days on our backs.

The first day’s trail climbs up to a plateau along the Eastern rim of the mountains, where we saw baboons, rock hyrax, mountain zebra, several eagles and many, many wildflowers. But we had started late and didn’t make it quite to the firstt shelter that night. Instead, we camped out in the open, using a clearing made by zebras for their sand baths. The soft ground suited us just fine and we had a great time sleeping under the moon and stars of a clear sky.

Early the next morning, we made it to the shelter and there was trasheverywhere. Due to flood damage during the last rainy season, the “jeep track” for maintenance was impassable, and the baboons had used the opportunity to raid the place. But the water pump was fine (every shelter is supposed to have a water supply, and so we needed to carry only 3 liters per person per day.) All morning the trail wound across the high plateau and for lunch we stopped near a huge active nest of sociable weavers. (It’s like an apartment house for birds.) From then we climbed down through a deep gorge, partially secured on chains, to the site of a former- vacation home that is now the 2nd night’s shelter. That night a herd of zebra visited us, munching the grasses behind the nearby bushes.

On the third day we had to climb back up through the same gorge, and then take a long hike over the hilly high lands. We saw more zebra, and lots of klipspringers, but not the white rhinoceros that roams the area (we were assured, it’s friendly, and yes we saw lots of fresh unmistakable rhino dung, but that was it). We continued on the 4th day, until we reached another gorge. This is the point of no return: you have to slide down a smooth rock face with no possibility to climb back up. Soon we had to climb up another slope to
bypass a large (but now dry) waterfall. The beautiful view from above was worth the struggle. On the other side, once more in a valley, we found Namibia’s largest Moringa tree (known locally as a medicine tree for its curative values), with the stem of 4 meters

(13 feet) circumference. That night we all had a much-needed quick shower from a huge water tank before crawling into our sleeping bags.

After a steep ascent in the morning, day 5 led us across the extensive milkweed plain – again with klipspringers and zebra watching us. However, in the evening we hit a crisis at the shelter: No water. This despite the fact that there was a huge tank and a solar water pump. It seems that someone had inadvertently left the valve open on the out-flowing pipe.

Eventually, we saw that somebody else before us had drilled a small hole at the bottom of the tank and closed it with a wooden peg. By opening it, there just was enough water to fill our bottles. What a relief! Of course, we closed it carefully again, and also the main valve, so that future hikers may have more luck.

That night we had another good meal thanks to Michelle’s art of cooking – despite the limited choices of dry foods that we could carry, she always came up with surprises. And then we enjoyed the last of our hot chocolate under a full moon.

Day 6 was the hardest and longest day, starting with climbing up steeply next to a 200 meter waterfall, and then continuing over the boulders in the riverbed above. At times we climbed the side of the gorge so high that we could look into eagle’s nests from above. Finally, following the remainders of an old farm road, we descended down to Tufa shelter – nicely nestled between large trees in a valley. There, the pipe on the water pump was broken, but water was gushing out on the side, which allowed us to fill our water bottles anyway – this time a double load, because we were warned that the last shelter also was unreachable by vehicle and its water tank was empty.

The 7th day hike began on a path through scruffy bushes, and at some particular narrow place, Ari tripped and fell backwards into the bushes, pulling Elsita with him. Not much happened since the

backpacks protected them somewhat, but this time the medical emergency kit was needed to mend some ripped pants. Shortly after, we arrived at the last big ascent of the hike, a climb up along a waterfall where we had to pull ourselves up along a long chain. Over many more boulders and rocks, we eventually gained the highest point of the hike at Bakenkop – rightfully called “World’s View” over the desert far below.

That night we camped at Kapokflakte shelter on the high plains. As the sun set, we saw a herd of springbok, but later they disappeared. We had expected to see more in the full moonlight – but a cold wind came up, forcing the animals into lower valleys and us into our sleeping bags. Next morning the temperature was below freezing with a hoar frost on the grass.

The last day led across a rubble-strewn high plateau

and then into the waterkloof gorge and down from the mountain. There was still plenty of water, and some of the pools were tempting for a swim, but we were running late and had to rush back. By mid-afternoon, we reached the park office, greeted by the park ranger and the next group of hikers, who were eager to hear about our adventures. Hopefully the park officials can do something about the conditions we reported.

Despite the hardship and some big scratches and bruises, we had eight glorious days in the wild without seeing any humans except our own group. With the gorgeous views and herds of animals around, this was always my favorite hike and I am glad I could do it again – providing a bit of closure to thirteen years in beautiful Namibia.


Ending Experience #2: Success leads to new challenges (from Lucy)

I recently returned from Zambia -- my last African trip before Bernd and I embark on our Round-the-World adventure. Eleven hours by road from the capital of Lusaka, I reached Mansa – an agricultural outpost along Zambia’s northern border with the Congo. Here I met a group of amazing people associated with the Luapula Foundation, whose history is about as “far out” as its location.

Founded in 2001 by two Zambian citizens and a former US Peace Corps volunteer, the Luapula Foundation began with a donation of $870 from Louisiana, USA. Distressed by the growing numbers of children orphaned by AIDS

and unable to attend school, the three founders used their fledgling organization to provide 23 orphans with school fees, uniforms and the supplies they needed. As the years passed, more volunteers became involved and international assistance poured in. Currently, the Luapula Foundation supports over 3,000 orphans and vulnerable children as well as their caregivers. Their goal is to empower local families who are infected or affected by HIV to take responsibility for their own wellbeing, using the Foundation’s support to increase their access to education, health-care, and new techniques of “conservation farming.”

My visits always include a trip into the field to see what is really happening on the ground. Staff took me to meet with eighteen members of the Mushila Support Group of People Living with HIV/AIDS, an hour and a half away from the office. All the members looked healthy, which is remarkable in itself, as most had been bedridden and near death just a few years ago. Currently, all are receiving life-saving anti-retroviral drugs and have benefited from several training courses and start-up capital to improve their nutritional and economic condition.

What specifically, did the group get? Beginning two years ago, funding from the Stephen Lewis Foundation provided them with training on leadership, new farming

techniques and “positive- living.” They were taught how to construct fuel-efficient stoves (saving wood and labor), and they received several sacks of maize-meal and oil to make and sell fritters at the local market. (This paid for their immediate expenses.) They were also given a pregnant pig and some goats, and out of the 18 people with whom we met, seven said that they have gotten at least one animal from the offspring. (In addition to providing a source of food, these farm animals constitute the local bank – they represent a family’s savings until a major expense must to be paid.) Finally, the Foundation provided two bicycles to the group, to help people get to the Health Clinic without having to pay others for transport.

Group members spoke glowingly about the continued impact of the assistance they received. Their peanuts and soya crops have already produced two big harvests, thanks to the new farming techniques that they learned. For the first time in years, they have enough protein in their diet. Profits from the sale of fritters paid for last year’s school-fees, so that the children of group members could continue their education. Overall, the members said that they feel healthier and more respected in their community, and this has resulted in the reduction of stigma and discrimination. Now, other people are even asking for their advice, especially about HIV/AIDS and conservation farming. They are proud of what they have achieved, and feel much more optimistic about their future.

This is a success story except for one catch. When the group started it had 12 people and – had they remained that size – all of them are convinced that they would be completely self-sufficient now and able to support their families. But their success attracted more and more members, and today they are 51 people, with more wanting to join every month.

The problem is that African culture dictates that, when someone has achieved relative wealth, then others are entitled to share the bounty – both family members and neighbors in the community. Thus, the Mushili group was obliged not only to welcome the new members, but also to include them in the outcome of the work undertaken so far. Spreading the earnings to 51 people has watered down the benefit that any one person can enjoy. Thus everyone is a little bit better off but no one has enough to lift him- or her-self out of the depths of poverty. Once again, paying school fees has become a problem. And, as we were told, “Having two bicycles was great for 12 people, but not for 51. Moreover, we expect we’ll be 100 members pretty soon.”

I asked what the group intended to do about this onslaught of interest. I was told it is “not African” to turn neighbors away. The group’s chairperson said, “We are thinking of restructuring our Board so we can deal with this, but we don’t know how.” Clearly, this will be Luapula Foundation’s next challenge: to help the Mushila Support Group remain small enough to guarantee integrity and impact, but also ensure that others in the community can start their own groups with a similar outcome.

The odds are against such a development,however. Jealousies are bound to break out between groups, and to retain peace the local chiefs may decree that it is better to remain poor and unified than unequal and at-war. If that happens, it’s back the old ways of doing things, and true progress – even when it has proven itself possible – may be rejected. This is how Africa will survive (and part of what we love about it), but also why true progress is be so difficult to achieve.

Beginning Experience #1: Mazel Tov to Us

This morning (June 6th) the woman who will live in our house while we’re gone became a mother. You may remember Lydia from

her great wedding in the north, about 18 months ago (see Namibia Diary #222). She gave birth to a beautiful baby girl and all is well. We weren’t allowed to know the names until the baby arrived, but a few minutes ago the father told me: The parents are calling her Twapanda (We are grateful) Etugama (God is on our side) Twapewa (She has been given) Sharon (Biblical, denoting the valley of Sharon). And because Lydia lives in our house, we also got to add a name: it is Tsipora, meaning little bird in Hebrew (and also the wife of Moses).

Beginning Experience #2: Eighteen days to go

Yikes! We’re mostly in denial about having to say good-bye, and our “TO DO” list is still too long for comfort. Nevertheless, we plan to have a website up and running (http://web.me.com/berndlucy/sevencontinents) before we leave, so you will be able to see photographs and keep abreast of our itinerary and adventures as much (or as little) as you want. We’ll also send out periodic letters, as now. Many of you have written us encouraging notes. Thanks for your support.

With best wishes,
Lucy and Bernd